Technical Resources Spotlight #4

Technical Resources Spotlight #4

What Keeps an Epoxy System Working as a System?

Epoxy system integrity diagram showing substrate, primer, body coat, reinforcement, topcoat, and finished surface

An epoxy installation depends on more than the quality of any one product.

The primer, body coat, reinforcement, and topcoat must work together in the correct order. One incompatible substitution or skipped step can affect the entire system.

Our new technical resource explains the basic principles that protect system integrity from the prepared substrate through the finished surface.

Complete systems produce more predictable results.

Concrete Crack Healer and Sealer

Fast Crack Healer and Sealer for Concrete Floors

When concrete floors start to show signs of cracking or surface wear, repairing them quickly and effectively can prevent costly downtime. Epoxy.com Product #684LV is a methyl methacrylate (MMA) resin system designed to penetrate, bond, and seal concrete surfaces — not just on bridge decks, but anywhere durable protection is needed.


What Makes #684LV Different

Unlike typical epoxies or sealers, #684LV is ultra-low viscosity and fast-curing. It seeps deep into cracks and pores in the concrete, restoring structural integrity while sealing out moisture and contaminants. Once cured, it forms a clear, tough, chemical-resistant surface that can be top-coated or left exposed.

  • Fast cure: typically 30–45 minutes even at low temperatures.
  • Deep penetration: bonds within the concrete matrix.
  • Chemical resistance: excellent for acids, fuels, and solvents.
  • Low downtime: floors can be reopened to traffic within an hour.

Ideal Uses Beyond Bridge Decks

While #684LV is trusted for infrastructure work, it’s equally effective in:

  • Industrial plants and warehouses – quick repairs between shifts.
  • Food and beverage facilities – sealing cracks to prevent bacterial growth.
  • Retail and commercial floors – keeping polished concrete from spalling.
  • Chemical and wastewater facilities – long-term protection from vapor intrusion.
  • Parking decks and ramps – extending the life of exposed slabs.

Wherever rapid turnaround and strong bonding are required, #684LV is a proven performer.


Application Notes

  1. Prepare the surface by cleaning and drying the concrete thoroughly.
  2. Flood-coat or broom-apply #684LV until refusal — allow penetration.
  3. Optional broadcast: silica sand for slip resistance or mechanical profile.
  4. Reopen to traffic within approximately one hour (temperature dependent).

For severe cracking, the material can also be pressure-injected to restore internal bond.


The Bottom Line

Epoxy.com Product #684LV gives contractors and facility managers a fast, permanent way to stop cracks before they grow — without waiting days for cure time. It’s a simple, reliable solution for extending the life of your concrete floor systems.


For more information contact:

Epoxy.com 
A Division of Epoxy Systems, Inc
A Vermont Corporation 
USA 

We have products that have passed the test of time as well as the best new Systems available today.

Since 1980 – 40 years of the highest quality products

Hours: 9AM-4PM Eastern Time (6AM-1PM Pacific Time)

Closed for lunch from 12Noon to 1PM


321-206-1833  Customer Service – Ordering and Order Status
                         Katey Lambert-Fontaine, VP – Chief Operations Officer
                         sales@epoxy.com

                        Technical Support
352-533-2167  Norm Lambert, President – Technical Support Director 
                         info@epoxy.com

How to Repair and Rebuild Rotted Wood Before Epoxy Consolidation



Introduction

Not all wood can be saved. When decay has gone too far—when it crumbles under light pressure or smells of rot—it’s time to cut out the bad and rebuild the structure. This blog walks you through how to safely remove rotted woodrebuild missing areas, and prepare the surface for long-term durability using Epoxy.com Products #12, #899, and #2005.


When Consolidation Isn’t Enough

Epoxy consolidants are designed for structurally sound but weakened wood.
If the wood is:

  • Soft and spongy to the touch
  • Darkened or blackened from fungal rot
  • Easily gouged with a screwdriver

What You’ll Need

  • Chisel or oscillating tool (for clean removal)
  • Wire brush or coarse sandpaper
  • Product #12 (for dry wood) or #899 (for slightly damp wood) – consolidating primer
  • Product #2005 – 100% solids epoxy binder for mortar repairs
  • Product #10 Mortar – Trowel-grade epoxy patching material
  • Optional: Clean, dry silica aggregate for custom mortar blends

Step-by-Step Repair Process

1. Remove All Rotted Material

Use hand tools or saws to remove all visibly rotted, spongy, or moldy wood. Cut back to firm, dry material. Do not attempt to epoxy over active wet rot or dry rot.

2. Clean and Shape the Repair Area

Use a wire brush or coarse sandpaper to clean and roughen the surface. Square or undercut edges provide better bonding than shallow bevels.

3. Prime With Consolidating Epoxy

Before patching, consolidate and prime the exposed wood using:

  • Product #12 for dry surfaces
  • Product #899 for slightly damp or moisture-prone wood

Let it soak in and cure as directed.

4. Rebuild With Epoxy Mortar

Once the primer has cured:

For shallow surface fills, apply Product #2005 directly without any filler.
For deeper voids or structural cavities, blend Product #2005 with clean, dry silica aggregate to create a strong, custom epoxy mortar.
By blending the 2005 with silica sand it makes it still thicker. It makes it more economical and helps with thermal coefficient improvements needed for large patching.
Product #10 combined with silica sand can be used in areas where a form is in place, or where the shape of the cavity naturally contains the material—such as recessed or enclosed voids.

Tool flush or slightly proud of the surface. Epoxy mortars are difficult to sand once fully cured.

5. Finish and Coat (Optional)

Example Applications

After the patch cures, you may apply an additional coat of #12 or #899 for sealing, or topcoat with paint, stain, or other finishing systems.


Rotted window sill:

Cut back to solid wood, prime with Product #12, then fill with Product #2005 or Product #12 and silica sand Mortar.

Decorative trim with soft spot:

Excavate the damaged area, consolidate with Product #12, and rebuild using a custom mortar mix made with Product #2005.

Dock board edge with water damage:

Trim back the affected edge, prime with Product #899, and patch with Product #10 Mortar.

Column base or porch post:

Remove all rot, consolidate with #12 or #899 as appropriate, then form and pour an epoxy mortar patch using Product #2005.


Tips & Warnings

  • Never apply epoxy over saturated, rotting, or fungal-infected wood
  • Always consolidate first with #12 or #899 before patching
  • Epoxy is permanent—shape and tool before full cure
  • Confirm compatibility if you’re topcoating with a different system
  • You can also add a replacement wood member:
    Use Product #2005 between the original wood and the new section to create a flat, high-strength bearing surface.
    While mechanical fastening is still recommended, the epoxy bond ensures the new piece acts as though it were part of the original structure.

Conclusion

When wood is too far gone to consolidate, you can cut it, rebuild it, and seal it—permanently. With Product #12 or #899 for priming and Product #2005 or #10 Mortar for patching, Epoxy.com provides everything you need for professional-grade restoration.


Contact:

For more detailed information
Contact Us Today:
📞 Call: 321-206-1833 (orders)
📞 Technical Support: 352-533-2167
📧 Email: sales@epoxy.com
🌐 Visit: www.epoxy.com



Acid Etching vs Mechanical Cleaning of Concrete

Acid etching is a common method for preparing concrete surfaces, but whether it is “okay” depends on the specific application and the level of surface preparation required. Below is a detailed comparison of acid etching vs. mechanical methods (sanding or grinding).

Acid Etching for Surface Preparation

How it Works:

Acid etching uses diluted acids (typically muriatic or phosphoric acid) to react with the lime in concrete, dissolving weak surface material and creating a rougher profile for coatings.

Advantages of Acid Etching:

 • Inexpensive & Readily Available – Requires only acid, water, and protective gear.

 • Easier to Apply – Can be done with basic tools like a sprayer and broom.

 • Effective for Light Surface Preparation – Removes laitance (weak top layer of concrete) and some contaminants.

 • Minimal Dust Generation – Unlike mechanical grinding, which creates airborne dust.

Disadvantages of Acid Etching:

 • Inconsistent Results – Does not always create a uniform profile, especially on dense or power-troweled concrete.

 • Limited Surface Profile – May not achieve the necessary texture for thick epoxy coatings (CSP 2 vs. CSP 3+ required for heavy-duty coatings). Please note

 that all Epoxy.com Products fall into the category of thick coatings.

 • Environmental & Safety Hazards – Requires proper handling and disposal of acidic waste to avoid environmental damage.

 • Risk of Excess Residue – If not neutralized and rinsed properly, residual acid or salts can interfere with

Sanding or Grinding for Surface Preparation

How it Works:

Mechanical methods use abrasives (diamond grinders, scarifiers, or shot blasters) to remove surface material and create the correct profile.

Advantages of Grinding/Sanding:

 • Superior Surface Profile – Ensures a roughened surface for stronger epoxy adhesion.

 • Removes Coatings, Stains, and Contaminants – Unlike acid etching, which does not fully remove oil, grease, or sealers.

 • Works on All Concrete Types – Effective even on dense or power-troweled surfaces.

 • No Chemical Residue – No risk of leftover acid affecting epoxy adhesion.

 • Better for Thick or High-Performance Coatings – Creates CSP 2-3+ profiles required for heavy-duty applications.

Disadvantages of Grinding/Sanding:

 • More Labor & Equipment Needed.

 • Higher Cost – Equipment rental or professional services add expense.

Which Method Should You Use?

 • For light-duty coatings (thin epoxies, paints, or stains): Acid etching may be sufficient but must be done carefully.

 • For industrial coatings, high-traffic areas, or polished concrete: Grinding is the superior option for proper adhesion and longevity.

 • For previously coated or heavily contaminated concrete: Grinding is necessary to fully remove previous layers.

Final Verdict:

While acid etching is sometimes acceptable, mechanical grinding is the superior method for ensuring strong, consistent adhesion, especially for epoxy and industrial coatings. All Epoxy.com costing and flooring fall into this category. Acid etching is best reserved for light-duty applications or when mechanical preparation isn’t feasible.

For more detailed information Contact Us Today:

Call:

321-206-1833 (orders)

352-533-2167 (technical support)

Email: sales@epoxy.com

Visit: www.epoxy.com