Epoxy Injection of Structures Part 2

February 14, 2017

Infrastructure Repairs Using Epoxy

Epoxy Concrete Injection Epoxy Wood Injection, epoxy crack repair

Epoxy Structural Concrete and Wood Repair / Waterproofing

The following article is written with enough information about resin injection systems to help protect the Owner from the misuse or improper installation of an injection systems.   For more information contact me: Norm Lambert.

This is the second in a series on Infrastructure Repairs Using Epoxy. Part One was Introduction to Epoxy Injection.  If your have not read that yet you may want to go back and read it before you proceed with reading this.

Part 2: Crack Analysis Before Epoxy Injection

As with all repair and rehabilitation of concrete, the initial job analysis is by far the most important step. Epoxy Injection Resin will weld concrete cracks but, of course, will not repair the cause of the cracking.

Analyze each potential injection application to determine the exact cause or causes of the cracking. Correcting the cracking problem can be fairly simple, or may be difficult involving design changes.

Consult a structural engineer when design changes are necessary. Do this before starting the injection. Repairing cracks by Injection is effective after these design changes. Prevent future cracks by fixing the original cause of the cracking, when ever possible.

Parking garages are an example of cracking problem that require a structural engineering analysis.Epoxy.com Epoxy Inection Often inadequate design for expansion/contraction is the cause for parking garage structural cracking. Avoid weld injecting a crack if there are not enough expansion joints. Sometimes flexible overlays such as Epoxy.com System # 495 can be used to overcome this defect. This does not however encapsulate the rebar in a way that will totally stop the premature deterioration of the steel. Often times additional joints are needed, thus the analysis of cracking problems is critical.

Bridge decks and slab on grades can often be repaired with Epoxy.com Product #684LV crack healer and sealer and save some of the cost of doing epoxy injection.

Next in the Injection Series:

Part 3: Setting Epoxy Injection Ports

For more information visit our website at http://www.epoxy.com, email us at info@epoxy.com or call our technical service department at +1 (352) 533-2167.


Concrete Crack Healer & Sealer

February 9, 2017

Repair Cracks in Bridge Decks

And Similar Horizontal Concrete Surfaces

Low Viscosity Fast Setting Methyl Methacrylate (MMA)

Permanent Crack Repair System

MMA CONCRETE CRACK HEALER and SEALER Product #684LV is a 100% reactive ultra-low viscosity methyl methacrylate resin used as a penetrating crack sealer or to fortify extremely porous concrete substrates. MMA CONCRETE CRACK HEALER and SEALER Product #684LV is typically used on bridge decks, parking structures, concrete floors or as a general penetrating sealer to prevent moisture intrusion.

MMA CONCRETE CRACK HEALER AND SEALER Product #684LV is a reactive methacrylate resin, which hardens rapidly with the addition of Product #695 MMA HARDENER, even at low temperatures.

ADVANTAGES

  • Fast Cure (60 min.) for Rapid Recoat and Return to Service
  • Ultra-Low Viscosity for Excellent Absorption Into Concrete
  • Protects Against Water Penetration
  • VOC Compliant (100% Solids)
  • Full Strength in 1 Hour
  • Use Over Wide Temperature Range – Even Below Freezing – Adjust for Temperature in the Field

CONSIDERATIONS

  • Substrate must be dry and free of dirt, waxes, curing agents and other foreign materials.
  • Should not be installed on fresh concrete until maximum shrinkage has occurred (at least 30 days after placement).

COMPOSITION

MMA CONCRETE CRACK HEALER and SEALER Product #684LV is a 100% reactive methyl methacrylate resin. Color is supplied is clear.

USES

  • Bridge Decks
  • Containment Structure Floors
  • Plant Floors
  • Concrete Slab on grade
  • Suspended Concrete Slab
  • Virtually any horizontal concrete surface

For more information about repairing infrastructure visit our website at: http://www.epoxy.com, email us at info@epoxy.com or phone technical support at +1 (352) 533-2167


Cold Temperature Epoxy

November 18, 2016

Installing Epoxy in Coolers and Cold Temperature

Extend Epoxy Installation Season into Winter

I have spoken on this subject here before but this time of year I get a lot of calls and emails about installing epoxy in cold temperatures. Our company started out as an installation company in Vermont. Summers are very short and winters are very long in Vermont. To stay a viable company, we had to figure ways of working through the winter.

Tenting and heating areas during the winter is time consuming and expensive. The solution is found in resin products that will set in low temperatures. The most durable and cost effective options of installation at cold temperatures is Epoxy and Methyl Methacrylate.

Cold Temperature Cure Resins can also be used as a super-fast setting Resinous Mortar or Coating at normal temperatures. Our Cold Temperature Cure Resins used at normal temperature give you quick turnaround time for small jobs, or larger jobs that require a short turn-around time.

Cold Temperatures Epoxies

Cold Temperature Cure Epoxy Resins allow installation to be done at low temperatures as low as 35°F., (although it sets a lot faster at 40°F) expanding your epoxy coating and epoxy flooring installation season. Epoxy.com Cold Temperature Cure Epoxy Resins can also be used in cold storage areas like food processing areas, where the temperature cannot be raised higher than 35° F or so. Normal cured epoxy typically requires 50°F or more.

Depending on how you mix the aggregate into the products below, they can be used as a mortar for overlays, or a grout for sealing between other hardened construction materials.

Commonly Used Cold Temperature epoxies

Product #1 Cold Temperature Cure Epoxy Coating is 100% solids and specially formulated coatings for cold temperature applications. Cold Temperature Epoxy Coating #1 is able to cure at temperatures as low as 35°F. It is has Zero (0) VOCs. Since it has no VOCs, it has no solvent so it meets the strictest possible standard for a low VOC coating. It is often used in coolers and food preparation areas that require constant low temperatures. Product #1 Cold Temperature Cure Epoxy Coating is also frequently used in room temperature applications to meet super-fast cure, limited shutdown needs.

Product #10 Cold Temperature Curing Epoxy Mortar Resin – This product has a low modulus of elasticity (flexibility) and is Low Viscosity. The low viscosity allows heavy loading of the right fillers. The heavy filler loading helps not only to save money, but helps to maintain better thermal coefficient with respect to concrete and steel. The low modulus of elasticity prevents it from being brittle making it less vulnerable to thermal coefficient differences. It also gives it better impact resistance.

You can find more information on cold temperature cured epoxy at: http://www.epoxy.com/EpoxyColdCured.aspx.

Please send me your questions to me by email to norm@epoxy.com


Epoxy Over Epoxy

June 28, 2016

A customer writes: “I installed your Product #1 All Purpose Epoxy Coating on our floor about 20 years ago.  The floor is not warn out or pealing.  It does have scratches where pallets with nails sticking out the bottom has scratched the surface. I want to change the color to our company color anyway, so I want to re-coat the whole floor. How do I proceed from here?”

You will want to sand the existing floor removing all the shine.  It sounds like there was quality installation and surface prep, since you have no lifting or pealing. If you should have any that is loose you need  to completely remove loose coating .  Solvent wipe with Xylene. Lets solvent dry and apply your epoxy normally.

CAUTION:  Epoxy doesn’t like sticking to epoxy unless you do your surface prep meticulously.  I always recommend doing a test patch to test your surface preparation before you proceed with doing the rest of the floor. This can be done by placing a small test patch or patches. Let them harden overnight and then try removing them with a putty knife, screw driver of similar method to insure it is well bonded.

For more information please contact Epoxy.com Technical Support Department by email at: info@epoxy.com or by phone 353-533-2167.


Are Epoxy.com 100% Solids Epoxy Low VOC

June 23, 2016

A user writes: “I have seen a number of your products that are on a list or marked with a tag that says Zero (0) VOCs.  When I look at the data sheet it says that the Epoxy.com product is 100% Solids, but does not say it is Zero (0) VOCs.”

Norm Lambert > Thank you for pointing that out.  You bring up an excellent question.  Epoxy.com Products that are 100% solids (100% active ingredients) do not contain solvent, that means they have no VOCs making them compliant with the toughest Low VOC Standards. I will start updating pages on the Epoxy.com to reflect that in the future.  Until then please rest assured that all Epoxy.com Products that are 100% solids have no VOCs in them.


Epoxy Oil Stop Primer

May 13, 2016
Epoxy_oil_stop_primer

Oil Saturated Concrete

 

Oily contaminated concrete is very difficult to bond to, but it can be done with special care and Epoxy.com Product #201 Oil Stop Primer.  Plant floors, warehouse floors, commercial, and residential garage floors can all have this problem.  Here is a typical question that I get about oil contaminated floors:

“We were looking at your product because we have a floor in a maintenance garage that is pretty well soaked with oil.  A new tenant is going into that space so we know that there needs to be something to allow the new floor to stick and to stop the odors.”

Here is my typical response:

Is the oil saturation petroleum oil? If so you need to:

  1. Degrease the floor
  2. Mechanically clean the floor – www.epoxy.com/surfaceprep.aspx.
  3. Apply 1 coat of Epoxy.com Product #201 – www.epoxy.com/201.aspx – at a rate of 200-320 SF per gallon.
  4. Inspect for bond the next day. If bond fails remove the loose #201 and go back to step one.
  5. If bond is good check for oil on top of the primer.  If there is oil on top of the #201 and it is well bonded remove the oil with xylene or other effective degreaser.
  6. Coat with 2 coats of Epoxy.com Product #2 – www.epoxy.com/2.aspx.

I like the Product #2 for these applications because it is very resistant to petroleum oils. Depending on your specific application the material you use over the #201 can be a number of different flooring, coating systems or chemical resistant epoxy floor systems.

For more information, please visit our website at www.Epoxy.com, contact our technical support department at 352-533-2167 or email me at norm@epoxy.com for a specific recommendation.

 


Epoxy Table Top Resin (Part 2) Installation

February 5, 2016
Pictures of an epoxy table top made from Product #214

Product #214 Epoxy Table Top Resin

This the second part of a 2 part article. In the first writing we dealt with some of the uses of Epoxy.com Product #214  Epoxy Table Top Resin. This article will deal with the installation of the material.

Quick Review

In my last writing I discussed that Product #214 Water Clear Epoxy Casting – Tabletop Resin – Bar Top Resin is an all-purpose, low viscosity epoxy resin system for coating wood and concrete counter tops, tabletops, bar tops and similar applications. It has excellent clarity and color retention. Our clear casting resin and tabletop resin / bar top Epoxy has zero (0) VOC making it essentially odorless and can therefore be used in occupied areas. It de-bubbles and flattens a lot easier than similar materials.

Considerations

The Product #214 epoxy resin is low viscosity. It is typically applied thicker than 1/16 inch thick. Because the Product #214 Table Top epoxy has such a low viscosity (thin) it needs some kind of boarder around the outside edge to create a dam for your main pour. The picture above shows you one way to make that trim decorative. It is easiest and most effective when the piece that will act as the dam will remain in place after the installation. If your application is less than 1/16 inch thick contact our Technical Support Department at 352-533-2167.

Before You Start

Be sure that you have the proper job supplies.

  • Paint stir sticks
  • 3 (5 G) plastic pails
  • Roll of Duct Tape
  • 4 Window Squeegees in various widths
  • Paper 6oz Dixie cups
  • 2 (2 blade) mixing paddles – should be at least 5 inches in diameter and capable of being used in a heavy duty drill
  • Heavy Duty Drill for mixing paddles above
  • 6 (2 inch) paint brushes *check bristles to be certain they CAN NOT be pulled out*
  • Latex (or non latex) rubber gloves
  • Vacuum (Shop Vacuum Quality)
  • Roller Pans (for trim)
  • Roller Pan Liners (for trim)
  • Roller Frame (for trim)
  • Roller Covers (shed resistant – for trim)
  • Roll of plastic to keep buckets on to avoid drips onto floor
  • *Note – Epoxy does NOT come out of fabrics*
  • Go Jo Hand cleaner or fast orange for hands and skin
  • Xylene, MEK, or Acetone for cleaning up hard tools and hard surfaces
  • Electric Hair Dryer or Heat Gun
  • Spray bottle
  • Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol as high a content as possible (90% or higher)

Preparation

Be sure that your tabletop is level. The epoxy table top resin is going to go water flat. If your table is not flat when you pour it, then the surface of the epoxy will be level to gravity and not with your table.

Put plastic under the table that you are about to coat. This plastic is to catch the resin that drips off the table during installation. I like putting some cardboard on top of the plastic to absorb the resin that drips off so it doesn’t get tracked around the room.

Vacuum the surface to receive the tabletop epoxy to remove any dust, or dirt. Mask all surfaces that need protecting.

Be sure that the trim that you have around the table to hold your resin is tight fitting and securely fastened. Mix a small batch of Epoxy Table Top Resin or Epoxy.com Product #15. Coat the trim piece on the outside of the table and use the resin to seal the joint between the table and the trim piece.

The first coat should be installed thin. The first coat is acting as a primer. Additional coats can be applied thicker but be sure not to apply it so thick that you get puddles or runs. Be sure to wipe any resin that gets on the bottom of the table off. This will save a lot of sanding later. Apply as many coats as you feel you need to get the look that you want on the trim pieces. Be sure each coat of epoxy is applied within 24 hours of the previous coat.

Pouring the Epoxy Table Top

Mix your epoxy in batches small enough so you can pour them quickly and all at once. If you leave a large mass of epoxy in the bucket it produces heat quickly. That dramatically reduces the published potlife. Follow all good mixing practices when mixing the material, at a minimum proper measuring of A and B, mix for 3 minutes, being sure to scrape the sides and bottom as you go.

Individual pours should not be less than about 1/16 or more than 3/8 to ½ deep. If the pours are too thin you may experience fisheyes. If the pour is too thick it might produce too much heat. Two much heat can hurt the aesthetics of your table.

If you need the epoxy to be more than 3/8 to ½ inch deep it should be done in multiple pours. Simply wait for the previous pour to harden and cool and then make your next pour. Be sure to make the next pour not longer than 24 hours in between the coats. If you wait much longer than that you may experience inter-coat adhesion issues

 

Many table top resin manufacturers recommend the use of torches to make their materials lay flat. You do not need to do that with Product #214 table top and casting resin. Our material is thinner than those other materials and will lay flat when applied at the right thicknesses all by themselves.

Make your final pour so that it is full up to the top of your trim pieces and carry it over the edge. That way it appears like all the resin on the top and edges of your trim were from a single pour.

Much of the time Product #214 Table Top Resin tends to de-bubble on its own without a lot of effort to remove the bubbles. The bubbles that you do have can typically be easily removed with a high concentration Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and/or your hair dryer or heat gun.

Any bubbles you see should be broken as soon as possible. That means that you will need to watch your tabletop as it sets up and break the bubbles as soon as you see them. You should continue to watch until the resin gets stiff enough that no more bubbles can be formed.

The electric heat gun or hair dryer can be used to blow at the areas to make the bubbles break. The heat helps to thin the resin and the force of the air helps to break them.

The isopropyl alcohol can be misted over the surface. Never spay it directly the isopropyl alcohol directly at the surface but rather mist above the surface at about a 90 degree angle allowing the droplets to hit the surface. Never spay enough to wet the surface. The droplets of isopropyl alcohol help to mechanically break the bubbles while the isopropyl acts as a solvent that evaporates almost immediately after the bubble breaking action.

Summary

Epoxy.com Product #214 Table Top Epoxy Resin is a versatile product that is easy to use. It is designed to be poured where a thicker casting of epoxy resin is required. This epoxy table top resin pours to a water flat shinny surface. It easily releases its bubbles with a little assistance, and cures water clear.

Please keep your questions coming to me.

Norm Lambert
352-533-2167 (Voice)
norm@epoxy.com

http://www.epoxy.com

Additional Resources


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