Patching Vinyl Ester Floors With Novolac

July 28, 2016

A customer writes:

“We have a dairy processing and packaging facility that was built circa 1994.  At the time of construction we chose to install a flooring system which was vinyl ester based with fiberglass mat.  The floor has held up quite well in areas where it had a good bond.  The failures we have seen are in areas that covered either an expansion joint or control joint in the concrete.  In these areas the flooring has delaminated from the concrete.  Where possible we have made a clean cut through the flooring to an area where we had a good bond and left the concrete exposed.  Other failure areas are around floor drains.  We have made repairs with quick curing epoxies in the past but these don’t seem to bond well to the existing vinyl ester flooring. 

“Having a manufacturing facility with only one down day limits our ability to make substantive repairs.  During a search for low or no VOC  flooring systems I you folks.”

I have personally made many thousands of square feet of floor repairs that sounds exactly like the issues and conditions that you are describing.

Here is what I did to permanently resolve the issue, at least in the patched areas.

  1. Cut back the edges of the delaminated areas back to a point where the vinyl ester is well attached.
  2. Prep the concrete under the failed area and the edges of the old material – epoxy.com/surfaceprep.aspx.
  3. Prime with Epoxy.com Product #12 – epoxy.com/12.aspx
  4. Install a trowel coat of Epoxy.com Product #630 – epoxy.com/633.aspx and
    1. Epoxy Mortar Blend aggregate #82 Mortar Blend Aggregate
    2. Allow to cure hard to the touch and cool.
  5. Glaze with a neat coat of Epoxy.com Product #633 with optional Anti-skid – http://epoxy.com/non-skid-additive-polycarbonate-aggregate.aspx

Please email your additional questions to norm@epoxy.com or visit http://www.epoxy.com .


Choosing Stone for Epoxy Stone

May 5, 2016

Epoxy_Stone_OverlaysBonding stone together with Product #17 – Epoxy Stone Adhesive is attractive and functional. It allows you to have the look of natural rock. This “natural rock” will let water pass through it just like its non-epoxied counterparts. It is however a good choice when you don’t want that stone to be moved, accidentally or on purpose.

This function is so nice that I am seeing projects where larger and larger stone is being utilized for the same reasons (above) as the small stone. There are a few shortcomings that should be avoided when bonding larger stones.

You want to make sure when selecting your stone that it is not too round. Round stone reduces the square inches of surfaces touching each other that are bonded together. That reduces the strength of the material, by reducing the square inches of bonding surface. If angular stone is used (as in the picture above) you increase the surface area touching each other and increase the strength.

If you want larger stones in the mix, I suggest you use a variety of smaller stone to fill in the large gaps between the bigger stone. If you combine a mixed gradation of stone that is also angular (not round) you can get an excellent compromise of strength and large stone beauty.


Epoxy Tile Grout – 100% Solids

March 30, 2016

Question:Matagascar Glass Tile Mural at the Bronx Zoo in NY done in Epoxy.com Product #225

” for tile installations? I don’t want one of those so called ‘epoxy tile grout’ that uses water based epoxy and Portland Cement combination. I want it to be a true epoxy system. If so please provide me a product data sheet.”

Yes that is Epoxy.com Product #225 Water Cleanable Tile Grout and Adhesive


Epoxy.com Product #225

Water Cleanable Epoxy Grout and Adhesive With Filler

100% Solids Epoxy and Special Fillers – Water Cleanable – No Portland Cement Content


 

DESCRIPTION


Epoxy.com Product #225 Water Cleanable Epoxy Tile Grout and Adhesive is a user friendly, water cleanable, 100% solids epoxy grout and adhesive and Filler Powder . Used for grouting ceramic tile, brick pavers, and stone, Epoxy.com Product #225 Water Cleanable Epoxy Tile Grout and Adhesive is supplied in pre-packaged kits containing resin, hardener, and mineral fillers that produce a dense, uniform seal. Typical applications for Epoxy.com Product #225 Water Cleanable Epoxy Tile Grout and Adhesive require resistance to thermal shock, chemicals, and heavy traffic including meat packers, breweries, canneries, bottlers, CIP areas, and pharmaceutical formulators.

ADVANTAGES

  • User Friendly Packaging
  • Low Odor for use in Occupied Areas
  • Meets ANSI A-118.3 Specification for Chemical Resistant, Water Cleanable Epoxy Grout
  • Available with Cold-Room Hardener
  • Low Viscosity-good wetting properties
  • Versatile-for both Setting and Grouting all Types of Tile
  • USDA Approvable
  • Available in Floor Grade and in Wall Grade
  • Zero (0) VOC – No VOC content means it meets the strictest Low VOC requirements

SURFACE PREPARATION

Surface Preparation is the most critical portion of any successful resinous flooring system application. Work must be performed by trained or experienced contractors or maintenance personnel. Epoxy.com service department is pleased to answer any questions. Before grouting, clean joints and the tile surface with a damp sponge to remove dust, dirt, and other contaminants. Do not leave water standing in joints. Do not clean tiles with acid cleaners.

MIXING

Empty entire contents of Epoxy.com Product #225 Water Cleanable Epoxy Tile Grout and Adhesive Part A and Part B into a clean mixing pail. With a slow speed drill or margin trowel, mix until liquids are completely blended. Add at least ¾ of the TILE GROUT FILLER (more for wide joints) and blend until uniform.

CONSIDERATIONS

Picture of #225 on a floor
  • Substrate must be free of dirt, waxes, curing agents, and other foreign materials
  • Protect from exposure to chemicals and harsh cleaners until fully cured.
  • Substrate temperature must be a minimum of 50°F-Contact Epoxy.com for Low Temperature Cure

INSTALLATION

Pour mixed Epoxy.com Product #225 Water Cleanable Epoxy Tile Grout and Adhesive onto working area. Following standard epoxy and grouting techniques, apply to surface. Be sure all grouted joints are completely filled. Remove excess grout with grout float. Do not leave excess grout on face of tiles. For complete installation instructions, contact Epoxy.com Technical Service.

CLEAN UP

Picture of Counter Top Grouted with #225

Some tiles and pavers can be stained by color pigments in Epoxy.com Product #225 Water Cleanable Epoxy Tile Grout and Adhesive. Try small area to determine results before grouting entire surface.

Clean skin with soap and water. Tools and equipment should be cleaned with xylene or lacquer thinner. Consult Material Safety Data for safety and health precautions.

Composition

Epoxy.com Product #225 Water Cleanable Epoxy Tile Grout and Adhesive is a100% Solids Epoxy Adhesive and Grout Fillers

PERFORMANCE PROPERTIES

Tensile Strength ASTM C-307 2,000 to 2,500 psi
Compressive Strength ASTM C-579 15,000 psi
Flexural Strength ASTM C-580 3,800 to 4,100 psi
Water Absorption 24 hours 0.15%
Heat Resistance 160°F Continuous
230°F Intermittent
Bond Strength to Concrete ASTM C-321 350-400 psi

CURE/DRY TIME

Working Life 45 minutes
Initial Cure 6-7 hours @ 75°F
Full Set Time Overnight
Full Cure & Maximum Resistance 5-10 days

MAINTENANCE

After completing the application of Epoxy.com Product #225 Water Cleanable Epoxy Tile Grout and Adhesive, the installer should provide the owner with maintenance instructions. If floors become slippery due to animal fats, oil, grease, or soap film, clean and rinse thoroughly. Epoxy.com Product #225 is easily cleaned with neutral soaps or detergent

COLOR SELECTION

Epoxy.com Product #225 Water Cleanable Epoxy Tile Grout and Adhesive is available in custom colors, subject to laboratory approval, minimum quantity, lead time for production, and increased cost.

Color Chart HereClick the picture of color card below for a larger version of this picture of the color chart.
Please note: The picture to the right is a photographic reproduction of the color card for this product. The photo reproduction process and your monitor and/or printer will change these colors. This chart is to give you an idea of the colors available and not intended for critical color selections.

Need help figuring out how much Epoxy.com Product #225 Water Cleanable Epoxy Tile Grout and Adhesive you will need. Use the Epoxy.com Product #225 Grout Calculator.

Grout Calculator.

Matagascar Glass Tile Mural at the Bronx Zoo in NY done in Epoxy.com Product #225 - Click to Enlarge

Matagascar Glass Tile Mural at the Bronx Zoo in NY done in Epoxy.com Product #225
Glass Tile Mural – Close Up
Madagascar Exhibit at the Bronx Zoo in NY
Mural and Pictures by: Jeannie Egel

For more information please contact:

Epoxy.com
A Division of Epoxy Systems, Inc
20774 W. Pennsylvania Ave.
Dunnellon, Florida 34431
Over 300 products,
Since 1980
Florida & Vermont
USA

Office Hours: 9AM-4PM Eastern Time (6AM-1PM Pacific Time).
Closed 12Noon-1PM Eastern Time for Lunch.

321-206-1833 Customer Service – Ordering and Order Status
Katey Fontaine, VP – Customer Service Director
sales@epoxy.com

714-657-3826 Technical Support
or Norm Lambert, President – Technical Support Director
352-533-2167 info@epoxy.com

352-489-1666 Accounting and Administration
Debby Lambert, CEO, and CFO
office@epoxy.com

352-489-1625 Fax line to all Departments
www.epoxy.com


Monument Repairs with Epoxy

March 9, 2016

A technician who uses a non-Epoxy.com product to repair tombstones wrote me recently looking for help with problems that he was having. He goes on to say that the epoxy that he uses never fails, but rather the stone fails. When a secondary break occurs, the stone always re-breaks about 2 mm (about ¾ inch) above or below the epoxy joint. The epoxy attached to about 2 mm of the stone and holds well.

He asked me if the epoxy shrinks so much that it will ‘ pull away ‘ from the stone it’s attached to, and in his case, it pulls about 2mm of stone with it.

No I doubt it is epoxy shrinkage causing the problem. High quality epoxy has little or no shrinkage. It would have to be a very poor quality epoxy to be shrinking enough to do that.

The reason his epoxy is not working is that it is too rigid. His existing rigid material has a “high modulus of elasticity”. A material with “high modulus of elasticity” is a material that is stiff and/or rigid. A “low modulus of elasticity” material is semi-flexible, and is not rigid or brittle.

T pieces of the stone structure (in this case a tombstone) and pieces not in touch with the ground tend to get hotter and cooler faster than the larger pieces and pieces with ground contact. This is called “differential timing of the event”. For example the top of a tombstone can be heated and cooled on 5 sides, the top and the 4 sides. The base of the tombstone which is buried in the ground has earth or stone on all of its surfaces. This earth and stone tends to keep the temperature of the base more stable by insulating it and slowing the change in temperature. This works much like the insulation in your house slows temperature changes inside your house.

When an object like a piece of stone is heated it expands (gets bigger). When an object cools it contracts (gets smaller). For example 100 feet of concrete will be 1 inch longer once it is heated 100 degrees F. That is why expansion joints are cut into concrete.

In the case of tombstones all the pieces of the same type of stone have very similar if not identical “coefficient of expansion”. Since the pieces are positioned with potentially different timing of heating and cooling there is a “differential timing of the event” (see above). The result is stress areas you are seeing in the closest weakened plane in the stone near the bond line.

Product #2005 was specifically designed for tombstone (monuments) and/or stone bonding, or repair. Epoxy.com Product #2005 is very strong yet it is has a “low modulus of elasticity” (semi-flexible). The low-modulus of elasticity helps to absorb differential movement (two sections of stone heating and cooling at different times), making it much less likely to cause a stress area in adjacent weakened planes.

Camouflage the bond line rubbing stone dust(ground off the original stone or a similar colored stone) into any exposed epoxy material while the epoxy is still “wet”. That way the dust will stick in the wet epoxy making the epoxy difficult to impossible to see.

Please send your additional question and blog ideas to norm@epoxy.com


Installing Epoxy Novolac #633

February 22, 2016

Epoxy.com Product #633 Novolac Epoxy Coating is installed basically in 3 Steps.

  1. Properly prepare the substratemixing-Epoxy
  2. Apply 1 coat of Epoxy.com Product #899 Primer at a rate of 250 to 300 SF per gallon per coat.
  3. Apply 2 coats of Epoxy.com Product #633 at a rate of 160 to 200 SF per gallon per coat.

Product #899 Epoxy Primer and Product #633 Coating are mixed and applied the same way. These are the only differences:

  1. The spread rate
  2. The optional anti-skid is typically only added to the #633

For the sake of simplicity the procedure for mixing and installing is mentioned once below because the three coats apply virtually the same way.

Before You Start

Before you start you will want to read the following.

  • Do with Epoxies – The things that you don’t want to forget to do when using epoxy.
  • Don’ts with Epoxies – Don’t do any of these things when using epoxy.
  • Surface Preparation – Surface preparation sets the foundation for your application. If you want your job to work better and last longer be sure to read and follow these steps.
  • For a list of job supplies to install a chip flooring see www.epoxy.com/job-supplies.aspx
  • Be sure to mix both the A and the B sides of your material before starting. Be sure to use a clean stir stick or mixing paddle for both. Do not cross contaminate.

Optional Cove

Cove Base Installation – Epoxy Cove installation used to be very difficult to install. With Epoxy.com Products and this installation guide, this job is made much easier.

Primer

When installing over concrete or wood you will first want to prime with Product #899 Epoxy Primer –www.epoxy.com/899.aspx. The purpose of this primer is to go on thin (250-300 square feet per gallon) and seal the floor so you do not get air or moisture coming up into your epoxy coating which will be going on thick (160-200 square feet per gallon). The 899 epoxy primer is also thinner than the coating and so it flows out better. Over stainless steel, aluminum and galvanized metal use Epoxy.com Product #660 Aluminum Filled for the primer.

 

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS

 

Mixing is by far the most important part of installation. One method to insure accurateEpoxy_Measure_2 mix ratios is to put measurements on sticks with the appropriate mix ratio. In the case of the 899 and 633 this is 2 Parts A to 1 Part B, so you might do 3 inches “A” to 1.5 inch of “B”

It is sometimes helpful to put some duct tape on the A stick. It will help you to see your line when using the pigmented “A” side

Be sure to properly protect the floor where you will be doing your mixing.Epoxy_Measure_1

Stir the Resin “A” and the Hardener “B ”each separately in their original container before measuring and mixing the two together. Be careful to use separate stir sticks so not to cross contaminate.

Temperature of Epoxy.com Product #899 Primer and Epoxy.com Products #1, #2 and #633 must be 50 degrees F or above at time of mixing. Stir each component separately before blending. Mix two parts by volume of Part A with one part by volume of Part B for three minutes with a low speed electric drill motor equipped with a mixing paddle. Be sure the mixing paddle is large enough to mix the material completely.  You will want to use a “propeller” type mixer with blades 5 inches or bigger.

Preparing to Mix Resin and Hardener Together

  • A 5 gallon metal pail or 5 gallon plastic pail makes a great mixing110614_2044_EpoxyChipFl10.png bucket.
  • Always be sure that your mix bucket is clean and is not contaminated with anything before you mix.
  • Some people like to use the two bucket method. That allows your person mixing to be mixing while your install people are installing the last bucket.
  • If you start to show signs of your material hardening in the mix bucket, start using a new one.

Mixing Tools

  • Typically you will want to use a paddle mixer, that goes into a low speed drill.
  • Your drill mixer should be large enough to stir the entire batch at once. A mixer that only moves only the partial contents of the pail, may result in inadequate mixing. Be sure that you use a clean mixing paddle. A dirty mixing paddle can result in poor mixing or contamination of the batch.
  • When mixing try not to whip any unnecessary air into your mix, by using the slowest drill speed and keeping the mixing paddle reasonably level.

Mixing110614_2044_EpoxyChipFl7.png

  • Carefully measure out the “A” resin and the “B” hardener into two other containers.
  • Pour “A” resin into your mixing bucket and then pour the “B” hardener into the mixing bucket. Always pour the “A” first and then the “B”
  • Stir for 3 minutes, being sure to scrape the bottom and sides as you mix.mixing-Epoxy

If Anti-Skid Course or Anti-Skid Fine is to be used add 12-16 volume ounces per mixed gallon, and mix until properly dispersed, typically 1-2 minutes.

Doing the Trim

• Trim around all the areas that are difficult to roll.

• Remember not to get two far ahead, you don’t want the material to set up before it is 110614_2044_EpoxyChipFl14.pngbroadcast.

• Also remember to pull the duct tape while the material is still wet

APPLICATION

Epoxy.com Product #899 can be applied with a brush, roller or squeegee at a rate of 250-300 square feet per gallon.  Remember that if you put it on too thick you can get bubbles in the 899 Epoxy Primer. The important thing is to 110614_2044_EpoxyChipFl17.pngcompletely wet out the concrete without leaving excessive material. Allow the 899 primer to cure until hard.  Typically, 10-12 hours at 75 degrees F.  Do not allow more than 24 hours between this coat and the coat of coating to follow it. Epoxy.com 899 Primer typically requires only 1 coat.

The Epoxy.com Product #633 Novolac Epoxy Coating is typically applied at a rate of 160-200 SF per gallon per coat. Typically, 2 coats of Epoxy.com Product #633 High Chemical Resistance Epoxy are required. These coatings can be applied with the same tools as #899 Epoxy Prime.110614_2044_EpoxyChipFl20.png

When Product #633 is applied over concrete or wood, prime with Product #899 Epoxy Primer and allow the Product #899 Primer to cure to tack free. Over stainless steel, aluminum and galvanized metal use Epoxy.com Product #660 Aluminum Filled for the primer. Be sure to install the 633 within 24 hours of the installation of the primer.

For typical installations as a coating apply 2 coats of Product #633 Novolac Epoxy at a rate of 160-200 square feet per gallon per coat. This yields a wet film thickness of 8-10 mils thick per coat or 16 – 20 mils for the two coats. Since this is a 100% solids Resin and Hardener system, there is no loss during drying, so the wet film thickness and the dry film thickness for 2 coats will be identical (16-20 mils DFT). Be sure to install the second coat after the 1st coat is hard enough to walk on but before 24 hours after the installation of the previous coating.

If Anti-Skid Fine or Anti-Skid Course epoxy anti-skid additive is used add plus or minus 12 volume ounces of Anti-Skid per mixed gallon of Product #633. Never add more than 16 volume ounces per gallon of Resin and Hardener mix.

In summary:

Step 1. Good Surface Preparation

Step 2. Apply 1 coat of Epoxy.com Product #899, at a rate of 250-300 SF per gallon

Step 3. Apply 2 coats of the appropriate Product #633 Highly Chemical Resistant Novolac Epoxy Coating. Add optional anti-skid if required.

For additional help please contact Epoxy.com Technical Support at 352-533-2167 or email norm@epoxy.com.

Additional Resources:

www.epoxy.com/899.aspx

www.epoxy.com/660.aspx

www.epoxy.com/633.aspx

 

 

 


Epoxy Table Top Resin (Part 2) Installation

February 5, 2016
Pictures of an epoxy table top made from Product #214

Product #214 Epoxy Table Top Resin

This the second part of a 2 part article. In the first writing we dealt with some of the uses of Epoxy.com Product #214  Epoxy Table Top Resin. This article will deal with the installation of the material.

Quick Review

In my last writing I discussed that Product #214 Water Clear Epoxy Casting – Tabletop Resin – Bar Top Resin is an all-purpose, low viscosity epoxy resin system for coating wood and concrete counter tops, tabletops, bar tops and similar applications. It has excellent clarity and color retention. Our clear casting resin and tabletop resin / bar top Epoxy has zero (0) VOC making it essentially odorless and can therefore be used in occupied areas. It de-bubbles and flattens a lot easier than similar materials.

Considerations

The Product #214 epoxy resin is low viscosity. It is typically applied thicker than 1/16 inch thick. Because the Product #214 Table Top epoxy has such a low viscosity (thin) it needs some kind of boarder around the outside edge to create a dam for your main pour. The picture above shows you one way to make that trim decorative. It is easiest and most effective when the piece that will act as the dam will remain in place after the installation. If your application is less than 1/16 inch thick contact our Technical Support Department at 352-533-2167.

Before You Start

Be sure that you have the proper job supplies.

  • Paint stir sticks
  • 3 (5 G) plastic pails
  • Roll of Duct Tape
  • 4 Window Squeegees in various widths
  • Paper 6oz Dixie cups
  • 2 (2 blade) mixing paddles – should be at least 5 inches in diameter and capable of being used in a heavy duty drill
  • Heavy Duty Drill for mixing paddles above
  • 6 (2 inch) paint brushes *check bristles to be certain they CAN NOT be pulled out*
  • Latex (or non latex) rubber gloves
  • Vacuum (Shop Vacuum Quality)
  • Roller Pans (for trim)
  • Roller Pan Liners (for trim)
  • Roller Frame (for trim)
  • Roller Covers (shed resistant – for trim)
  • Roll of plastic to keep buckets on to avoid drips onto floor
  • *Note – Epoxy does NOT come out of fabrics*
  • Go Jo Hand cleaner or fast orange for hands and skin
  • Xylene, MEK, or Acetone for cleaning up hard tools and hard surfaces
  • Electric Hair Dryer or Heat Gun
  • Spray bottle
  • Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol as high a content as possible (90% or higher)

Preparation

Be sure that your tabletop is level. The epoxy table top resin is going to go water flat. If your table is not flat when you pour it, then the surface of the epoxy will be level to gravity and not with your table.

Put plastic under the table that you are about to coat. This plastic is to catch the resin that drips off the table during installation. I like putting some cardboard on top of the plastic to absorb the resin that drips off so it doesn’t get tracked around the room.

Vacuum the surface to receive the tabletop epoxy to remove any dust, or dirt. Mask all surfaces that need protecting.

Be sure that the trim that you have around the table to hold your resin is tight fitting and securely fastened. Mix a small batch of Epoxy Table Top Resin or Epoxy.com Product #15. Coat the trim piece on the outside of the table and use the resin to seal the joint between the table and the trim piece.

The first coat should be installed thin. The first coat is acting as a primer. Additional coats can be applied thicker but be sure not to apply it so thick that you get puddles or runs. Be sure to wipe any resin that gets on the bottom of the table off. This will save a lot of sanding later. Apply as many coats as you feel you need to get the look that you want on the trim pieces. Be sure each coat of epoxy is applied within 24 hours of the previous coat.

Pouring the Epoxy Table Top

Mix your epoxy in batches small enough so you can pour them quickly and all at once. If you leave a large mass of epoxy in the bucket it produces heat quickly. That dramatically reduces the published potlife. Follow all good mixing practices when mixing the material, at a minimum proper measuring of A and B, mix for 3 minutes, being sure to scrape the sides and bottom as you go.

Individual pours should not be less than about 1/16 or more than 3/8 to ½ deep. If the pours are too thin you may experience fisheyes. If the pour is too thick it might produce too much heat. Two much heat can hurt the aesthetics of your table.

If you need the epoxy to be more than 3/8 to ½ inch deep it should be done in multiple pours. Simply wait for the previous pour to harden and cool and then make your next pour. Be sure to make the next pour not longer than 24 hours in between the coats. If you wait much longer than that you may experience inter-coat adhesion issues

 

Many table top resin manufacturers recommend the use of torches to make their materials lay flat. You do not need to do that with Product #214 table top and casting resin. Our material is thinner than those other materials and will lay flat when applied at the right thicknesses all by themselves.

Make your final pour so that it is full up to the top of your trim pieces and carry it over the edge. That way it appears like all the resin on the top and edges of your trim were from a single pour.

Much of the time Product #214 Table Top Resin tends to de-bubble on its own without a lot of effort to remove the bubbles. The bubbles that you do have can typically be easily removed with a high concentration Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and/or your hair dryer or heat gun.

Any bubbles you see should be broken as soon as possible. That means that you will need to watch your tabletop as it sets up and break the bubbles as soon as you see them. You should continue to watch until the resin gets stiff enough that no more bubbles can be formed.

The electric heat gun or hair dryer can be used to blow at the areas to make the bubbles break. The heat helps to thin the resin and the force of the air helps to break them.

The isopropyl alcohol can be misted over the surface. Never spay it directly the isopropyl alcohol directly at the surface but rather mist above the surface at about a 90 degree angle allowing the droplets to hit the surface. Never spay enough to wet the surface. The droplets of isopropyl alcohol help to mechanically break the bubbles while the isopropyl acts as a solvent that evaporates almost immediately after the bubble breaking action.

Summary

Epoxy.com Product #214 Table Top Epoxy Resin is a versatile product that is easy to use. It is designed to be poured where a thicker casting of epoxy resin is required. This epoxy table top resin pours to a water flat shinny surface. It easily releases its bubbles with a little assistance, and cures water clear.

Please keep your questions coming to me.

Norm Lambert
352-533-2167 (Voice)
norm@epoxy.com

http://www.epoxy.com

Additional Resources


Epoxy Table Top Resin

February 2, 2016

This article is written in two parts. This section will deal with all the uses of Epoxy.com Product #214 Table Top Resin. The second article will deal with the installation of the material.

So many of you are now scratching your head, trying to figure out how I can devote an entire article to what to use our epoxy table top resin for. Well, the table top resin isn’t just for table tops. Product #214 is used for a wide variety of uses

Characteristics

Product #214 Water Clear Epoxy Casting – Tabletop Resin – Bar Top Resin is an all-purpose, low viscosity epoxy resin system for coating wood and concrete counter tops, tabletops, bar tops and similar applications. It has excellent clarity and color retention. Our clear casting resin and tabletop resin / bar top Epoxy has zero (0) VOC making it essentially odorless and can therefore be used in occupied areas. It de-bubbles and flattens a lot easier than similar materials.

Casting Resin

Our epoxy table top resin is frequently used as “casting resin”. It is poured into forms typically made out of silicone. The material is allowed to harden and then forms removed. This can be for very small parts or it can be used for very large parts.

Table Top Resin as Flooring

Product #214 Epoxy Table Top Resin can be used when a super flat floor is required. It is possible to get a floor as flat as water. This is important under certain types of machinery such as MRI machines and equipment used to product high precision parts for use in items like space satellites.

Advantages of Clear Table Top Resin #214

  • Low odor for use in occupied areas
  • Low viscosity – good wetting properties
  • Meets USDA standards for use in food handling applications
  • Glossy finish
  • Stain resistant
  • Zero (0) VOC – No VOC means it meets the toughest low VOC standards.

The epoxy table top resin that we sell has also been used for dance floors, stages, theme parks and homes to produce a floor to simulate water. Often times this is done with rocks and other objects in the epoxy to give the appearance of steam, a river, a lake, or the ocean. At the same time it allows a super flat finish that allows dancing, and all the things normally associated with a flat floor.

Multi-Aggregate Tiles and Flooring

Product #214 Clear Casting-Tabletop-Bar Top Resin is used as a clear adhesive matrix for specialty colored glass and colored aggregate flooring and tiles. Product #214 Clear Casting-Clear Tabletop Resin – Clear Bar Top Resin forms a glossy, hard surface, which is resistant to stains. It is also used extensively as a water clear casting resin.

Please send your questions to me at norm@epoxy.com or visit our website at www.epoxy.com.


%d bloggers like this: