October 14, 2016
A customer writes, “I have a machine shop floor. The concrete has had a lot of oil on it over the years. I need an anti-skid floor that will be easy to clean and will hold up to cutting oils and anti-freeze and protect the environment.”
We have done exactly what you are asking many times. A mechanics shop floor typically is done the same way. Here is how:
1. Good surface prep – www.epoxy.com/surfaceprep.aspx
2. Properly mix and apply 1 coat of Epoxy.com Product #201 – www.epoxy.com/201.aspx oil stop primer to all oil saturated or potentially oil saturated areas at a rate of 200-300 SF per gallon. Allow this to harden and inspect for good bond (see “Checking the Bond” below. If any areas are loose return to step 1. If everything is well bonded proceed to next step within 24 hours of this step.
3. Properly mix and apply 1 coat of Epoxy.com Product #899 – www.epoxy.com/899.aspx – applied at a rate of 250-300 SF per gallon. Allow to cure hard and proceed to next step within 24 hours of this step.
4. Properly mix (including optional but recommended anti-skid 4a below) and apply first coat of Epoxy.com Product #2 – www.epoxy.com/2.aspx – at a rate of 160-200 SF per gallon per coat by brush or roller. Allow to cure hard and proceed to next step within 24 hours of this step.
a. Mix optional but recommended Epoxy.com Anti-Skid – http://www.epoxy.com/non-skid-additive-polycarbonate-aggregate.aspx – to the #2 at a rate of 12-16 ounces per gallon of mixed epoxy. Mix completely into the mixed A&B #2 before applying the #2
5. Properly mix (including optional but recommended Anti-Skid – http://www.epoxy.com/non-skid-additive-polycarbonate-aggregate.aspx 5a below) and apply 2nd coat of Epoxy.com Product #2 – www.epoxy.com/2.aspx – at a rate of 160-200 SF per gallon per coat by brush or roller. Allow to cure hard for 24 hours at 70 degrees F. for light traffic, 48 hours for light traffic.
a. Mix optional but recommended Epoxy.com Anti-Skid to the #2 at a rate of 12-16 ounces per gallon of mixed epoxy. Mix completely into the mixed A&B #2 before applying the #2
Checking The Bond
There are a number of ways to check the bond of a floor. A simple way with Epoxy Flooring is to try to separate the epoxy from the concrete. That can be done with the corner of a putty knife or a screw driver. If you can remove the coating cleanly from the concrete without pulling concrete it is likely that you have a bond problem. If you cannot get it off or you must dig off concrete to get it off, you most likely have a good bond.
June 23, 2016
A user writes: “I have seen a number of your products that are on a list or marked with a tag that says Zero (0) VOCs. When I look at the data sheet it says that the Epoxy.com product is 100% Solids, but does not say it is Zero (0) VOCs.”
Norm Lambert > Thank you for pointing that out. You bring up an excellent question. Epoxy.com Products that are 100% solids (100% active ingredients) do not contain solvent, that means they have no VOCs making them compliant with the toughest Low VOC Standards. I will start updating pages on the Epoxy.com to reflect that in the future. Until then please rest assured that all Epoxy.com Products that are 100% solids have no VOCs in them.
May 13, 2016
Oil Saturated Concrete
Oily contaminated concrete is very difficult to bond to, but it can be done with special care and Epoxy.com Product #201 Oil Stop Primer. Plant floors, warehouse floors, commercial, and residential garage floors can all have this problem. Here is a typical question that I get about oil contaminated floors:
“We were looking at your product because we have a floor in a maintenance garage that is pretty well soaked with oil. A new tenant is going into that space so we know that there needs to be something to allow the new floor to stick and to stop the odors.”
Here is my typical response:
Is the oil saturation petroleum oil? If so you need to:
- Degrease the floor
- Mechanically clean the floor – www.epoxy.com/surfaceprep.aspx.
- Apply 1 coat of Epoxy.com Product #201 – www.epoxy.com/201.aspx – at a rate of 200-320 SF per gallon.
- Inspect for bond the next day. If bond fails remove the loose #201 and go back to step one.
- If bond is good check for oil on top of the primer. If there is oil on top of the #201 and it is well bonded remove the oil with xylene or other effective degreaser.
- Coat with 2 coats of Epoxy.com Product #2 – www.epoxy.com/2.aspx.
I like the Product #2 for these applications because it is very resistant to petroleum oils. Depending on your specific application the material you use over the #201 can be a number of different flooring, coating systems or chemical resistant epoxy floor systems.
For more information, please visit our website at www.Epoxy.com, contact our technical support department at 352-533-2167 or email me at firstname.lastname@example.org for a specific recommendation.
November 20, 2012
Here is a suggested list of the materials that you will need for most typical epoxy coating systems. This list is also useful for installing roller applied coating systems like Epoxy.com Chip Flooring.
- 1 roller pan
- 6 inserts for roller pan
- 15 stir sticks
- 12 (5 QT) plastic pails
- 3 (5 G) plastic pails
- Roll of Duct Tape
- 5 heavy duty 9″ roller frames
- 6 (3/8″ nap) roller covers *be sure the roller nap doesnot fall apart in hands*
- Roller handle extension poll
- 4 Hard Plastic Body Filler type Squeegees
- Paper 6oz Dixie cups
- 2 (2 blade) mixing paddles – should be at least 5 inches in diameter and capable of being used in a heavy duty drill
- Heavy Duty Drill for mixing paddles above
- 6 (2″) paint brushes *check bristles to be certain they CAN NOT be pulled out*
- Latex (or non latex) rubber gloves
- Vacuum (Shop Vacuum Quality)
- Stiff Bristled Broom *check to make sure bristles do not fall out*
- Chalk line or laser to set lines that need to be masked
- Roll of plastic to keep buckets on to avoid drips onto floor
- Go Jo Hand cleaner or fast orange for hands and skin
*Note – Epoxy does NOT come out of fabrics*
For more information visit www.epoxy.com.