Acid Etching Revisited

January 25, 2016

During my last blog on January 10, 2016 about “Surface Preparation When Installing Concrete” we discussed among other things preparation of concrete by acid etching. I want to revisit that now in a slightly less formal explanation about why it is not the best of the possible methods of doing surface preparation.

Acid etching does not remove most contamination from the concrete. It is necessary before you acid etch concrete to remove most typical type of contamination like oil, grease, paint, mastic, and a host of other things first.

Acid etching attacks the Portland Cement. The Portland cement is the “glue” that is holding your concrete together. So acid etching done incorrectly will do more damage than good. Even if you do it correctly your floor may not be as strong a substrate for epoxy (or anything else) than it would have been if you mechanically cleaned it.

If you are going to acid etch I suggest that you not only do it properly but follow it with abrasive cleaning, to remove the soft top part of your concrete that is damaged by the acid etching. When I was an installer of epoxy products I rarely if ever acid etched but instead did mechanical cleaning.

Here are some of the reasons acid etching may not be desirable for your job.

  1. Acid etching is a risk to safety. Acid can damage items at your jobsite and pose a risk of injury to the people in the area.
  2. Mechanical cleaning is better for the environment, no acid will find its way into the ecosystem.
  3. Mechanical cleaning allows quicker turnaround time, you don’t have to wait overnight for the substrate to dry.
  4. Mechanical cleaning gives you more consistently high quality substrate than acid etching does.

In summary, whenever you can use abrasive cleaning it is safer and better than acid etching.

Please email me your questions to norm@epoxy.com or visit our website at www.epoxy.com


What is Most Versatile Epoxy?

August 18, 2015

My company has many different products and systems. I often get asked, “What is the best epoxy?” I need details about the

Clear Chemical Resistant Epoxy #15 over Stained concrete

Clear Chemical Resistant Epoxy #15 over Stained concrete

job to answer that question. The best epoxy is the one that is right for the specific job. That is where our company’s motto “The Right Product for the Right Job” came from. This is the driving force of our company and our technical support department. This has been our driving force for 35 years.

Perhaps the real question is, “What is the most versatile epoxy?” That is an easier question to answer. It is Epoxy.com Product #15 – www.epoxy.com/15.aspx. When I was an epoxy installer I always had Product #15 Clear Chemical Resistant Epoxy Resin on my jobsite.

Advantages

  • Clear Chemical Resistant
  • Can be applied as thin as 5/1000 inch or less and as thick as 1/32 (without Filler) or more
  • Can be applied as an aggregate filled system at a thickness of 12 inches or more.
  • Excellent wetting properties
  • Good temperature resistance
  • Low Viscosity
  • Non-shrink
  • Slower than other clear epoxies to oxidize outdoor in direct sunlight
  • Strong and durable
  • Virtually non-yellowing indoors

Uses

  • Acid Stain Concrete Floor Sealer
  • Base Coving Material for seamless flooring (when mixed with fumed silica and silica sand)
  • Clear coating over most porous materials
  • Chemical resistant primer
  • Chemical resistant mortar when mixed with silica sand
  • Chemical resistant top coating
  • Clear epoxy sealer for concrete
  • Clear epoxy sealer for wood, and other porous materials
  • Counter top coating
  • Epoxy quartz flooring
  • Pothole repair in concrete (when mixed with silica sand)
  • Sealing of stone that has been previously epoxied together (aka epoxy-rock, stone carpet etc.)
  • Surface sealing concrete cracks and joints (when mixed with fumed silica thickener)
  • Use with fiberglass or Kevlar to make strong composite members
  • Waterproof wood joint sealer (when mixed with fumed silica thickener)
  • Wood bonding as neat material or mixed with fumed silica thickener
  • Wood Floor Coating

Product #15 – www.epoxy.com/15.aspx – is a great product to have around for any number of emergency situations. Please address your questions to Epoxy.com Technical Support at 352-533-2167 or email me at norm@epoxy.com.


Choosing the Right Epoxy Sealer

May 18, 2015

Having the knowledge of which type of sealer to use is extremely important to the overall satisfaction of the job. There are 3 basic types of epoxy sealers. The first is 100% solids epoxy, solvent based sealants and finally water based sealers. There are also urethane and acrylic sealers.

To understand how each sealant works one must understand how they act as an epoxy. http://www.epoxy.com/primersealer.aspx . The 100% solids epoxy when applied to a floor retains a consistent thickness. Epoxy.com #15 http://www.epoxy.com/15.aspx is the best product for maintaining a clear epoxy sealer without any loss of thickness due to evaporation. If you roll a gallon of material on your floor, when it hardens you maintain the thickness of the full gallon of spread coverage.

Epoxy.com #15 can be used to seal previously installed epoxy and river rock stone on pool decks or walkways. It also seals Epoxy Chip flooring, as well as acts as a binger and sealer to Epoxy quartz flooring. It provides protection, just the right amount of shine and helps to keep the water from permeating the underlying concrete. It also works well inside in garages. It is our most versatile sealer that we offer it works great on concrete inside and when properly installed outdoors.

When you apply a water based sealer or solvated sealer you will consistently loose a percentage of the thickness due to evaporation. Even though this is the case there are times when a 100% solids epoxy may not do exactly what you need it to accomplish. In this case we offer products with different components and viscosity to suit your needs as a consumer.

Epoxy.com #671  is a low viscosity, two component, carbon filled, polyamide modified conductive primer/sealer formulated with special wetting agents to provide maximum penetration into concrete surfaces. Product #671 Primer Sealer is ideal for both new and old concrete surfaces. Product #671 Conductive Epoxy Primer Sealer provides excellent resistance to wear, and can be used either alone or as a conductive sealer or as a conductive epoxy primer when used with Product #674 Electro-Static Dissipating Urethane Topcoat and our Conductive Systems.

Epoxy.com #80 is a solvented clear acrylic solution formulated to create a clear, non-yellowing protective coating. Product #80 ACRYLIC SEALER http://www.epoxy.com/acrylic-sealer.aspx provides a tough, UV and abrasion resistant film that effectively protects surfaces from moisture penetration, staining, dirt, dust, and wear. It is good for both indoor as well as outdoor applications. This works well to seal existing terrazzo floors and as well as slate.

For those in California, who don’t want to use a 100% solid material, we offer Epoxy.com http://www.epoxy.com/High-Solids-Urethane-Coating.aspx Epoxy.com # 441 is free of the health and environmental problems normally found in solvent-based urethanes, while maintaining excellent performance properties. The very low VOCs allows this urethane coating to meet the strict low VOC standards. Epoxy.com # 441 Polyurethane Coating and Sealer provides a matte finish. Product #441 water-based urethane coating and sealer has good chemical, stain, and mar resistance.

Finally the most important thing to remember when you are choosing an Epoxy.com Sealer is to make sure you are using The Right Product for The Right Job. If you would like assistance with your selection please call our Technical Support Line at 352-533-2167 and we will be happy to assist you.


Applying New Epoxy over Old Epoxy

February 13, 2015

I frequently get calls and emails from folks who want to install our epoxy over an existing epoxy floor or coating that they have. They want to know if it is okay to go over it and what they have to do to properly prepare the surface.

If the existing epoxy is a good hard solid one that is well bonded to a well prepared substrate it is possible. On the other hand if you are replacing it, what is wrong with the existing epoxy? Has the existing epoxy been badly abused by heavy sharp objects being dragged on it? Was the exiting epoxy damaged by chemicals beyond the chemical resistance of the existing epoxy? Are you just trying to upgrade the look of the existing epoxy?

You should be concerned about going over epoxy that is coming loose from the substrate. That may mean that there was poor surface preparation. It may also mean that the quality of the epoxy might not be what it should be. You need to be concerned about epoxy that is wearing out. If it is wearing out you want to know why. My company and I personally started out as installers of epoxy. I have never seen or been made aware of any of Epoxy.com coatings and/or flooring systems that have worn out have come loose from the concrete. I have seen concrete so pounded by traffic that it came loose, but our epoxy was still attached and still doing its job. That is based on over 30 years of field experience with the products.

Back to the question, “can I put epoxy over epoxy?” I always assume that the reason that the epoxy is wearing out or coming loose is that the epoxy is low quality or the installation was poorly done or both until I can prove otherwise. The way that I do that is to attempt to grind or shot blast off the existing epoxy. If after a substantial effort the epoxy cannot be removed and I cannot hear a hollow sound under the existing epoxy, I feel I have proven that the existing material is solid and well bonded.

Let’s take a moment to discuss that dreaded hollow sound above. If the flooring system or coating is very poorly bonded you will get a sound from your grinder like you are dragging a piece of paper or a piece of stone under the grinder, or rubbing stone. When you tap it with a hammer you get a hollow higher pitch noise than you get when you tap solid concrete or a solid floor over concrete.

You must be sure that the substrate is free of all types of contamination, including but not limited to oil, grease, food fats, curing compounds, sealers, laitance, dirt, wax etc. The existing epoxy left behind must be well bonded, and sanded until it has no shine. See Epoxy Surface Preparation Procedures for more information on this subject.

The beauty of trying to get it off is you are removing all the shine and getting it ready to accept another layer of epoxy. Just before I install the new layer of epoxy I solvent wipe with xylene, let it dry. Then I recommend a coat either Epoxy.com Product #899 Primer or Epoxy.com Product #12 Chemical Resistant Primer. Then install epoxy as usual. For more surface preparation and installation tips please visit or “Where to Start” page at: http://www.epoxy.com/start/default.aspx

Related Resources on Epoxy

Where to Start” page may be the best way to get you off to a quick start.

Epoxy Coatings

Epoxy Primers and Sealers

Chemical Resistant Epoxy

Epoxy Chemical Resistance Chart

www.epoxy.com

Epoxy.com Technical Support
Norm Lambert, President – Technical Support Director
352-533-2167
info@epoxy.com