New Conductive Epoxy Primer

September 15, 2016

Epoxy.com is proud to announce Product #659. This is a  conductive primer that makes our existing conductive epoxy topcoat products even better.  Here is summary of the material:


CONDUCTIVE EPOXY PRIMER

Epoxy.com Product #659


DESCRIPTION

Product #659 Conductive Epoxy Primer is a water-based, two component, carbon filled conductive epoxy primer designed for use with various Epoxy.com Conductive Systems.Product #659  has very low odor making it suitable for use in occupied buildings.

ADVANTAGES

  • For Use with Various Epoxy.com Conductive Systems
  • Maintains Electrical Conductivity Performance over the Wear Life of the System
  • Fast Dry Time
  • Low Odor During Application and Cure
  • VOC Compliant in all 50 US States, Meets USGBC LEED Requirements

CONSIDERATIONS

  • Substrate must be above 50°F and relative humidity below 85% for proper curing.
  • Substrate must be properly prepared following Epoxy.com recommendations and free of dirt, waxes, curing agents and other foreign materials
  • Excessive moisture in the substrate will require a moisture vapor control treatment like Product #830
  • Concrete substrate must be insulated with a non-conductive
    epoxy primer/base coat like Product #12 Chemical Resistant Epoxy Primer or Product #899 Epoxy Primer  prior to application of Product #659 Conductive Epoxy Primer. Consult with Epoxy.com Technical Department for recommendations.
  • Must be top coated with a conductive top coating like Product #1ESD, or Product #630 Conductive.

APPLICATION

SURFACE PREPARATION

Surface Preparation is the most critical portion of any successful resinous flooring system application. All substrates must be properly prepared and tested for moisture as outlined in installation procedures or as recommended by Epoxy.com.

BATCHING, MIXING & INSTALLATION

 

Product #659 Conductive Epoxy Primer:
PART A 1 quart to
PART B 3 quarts to
Clean Water 8 volume ounces (6% by volume of water)
Total 4.125 quarts

Coverage (250 square feet/gal.) 265.6 square feet per batch

Pre-mix Product #659 Conductive Epoxy Primer  part B prior to combining with part A. Mix 1 part A with 3 parts B for 2-3 minutes with a low-speed jiffy mixer, scraping sides and bottom of mix vessel. Continue mixing and add 6% by volume clean potable water and continue mixing for 1 additional minute.

Immediately spread and back roll mixed Product #659 Conductive Epoxy Primer at a rate of 250 ft2 per gallon with a short nap roller over previously applied non-conductive epoxy primer/base coat.Care should be taken to avoid puddles. Allow to cure minimum 12 hours (at 75°F) to maximum 24 hours before coating with specified topcoat.

Important: Test Product #659 Conductive Epoxy Primer with ohm meter prior to top coating to confirm acceptable level of conductivity is achieved. If test readings are higher than 25,000 ohms, contact Epoxy.com Technical Support Department for further instructions before installing specified topcoat.

Top Coat with a conductive top coating like Product #1ESD, or Product #630 Conductive.

CLEAN-UP

Clean skin with soap and water. Tools and equipment should be cleaned with warm soapy water, xylene or lacquer thinner. Consult Material Safety Data for safety and health precautions.

COMPOSITION

Waterborne Epoxy Resin and Conductive Filler. Color: Black.

COVERAGE

Product #659 Conductive Epoxy Primer applied at 250 ft2 per gallon yields 2.7 mils dry film thickness.

TECHNICAL DATA (@ 75°F, 50% RH)

Viscosity 500-1000 CPS
Mixing Ratio 1 Part A to 3 Parts B by Volume
Solids Content, by volume 45%, thinned
Volatile Organic Content (VOC) <10 g/L
Bond Strength to Concrete 300-400+ psi (100% concrete failure)
Shelf Life 6 months when properly stored

CURE/DRY TIME (@ 75°F, 50% RH)

Pot Life 20-30 minutes
Dry to Touch 6-8 hours
Recoat (Refer to testing requirements) 12-24 hours
 Light Traffic 24 hours

For more information, visit us on line at Epoxy.com, email me at norm@epoxy.com or call Epoxy.com Technical Support at 352-533-2167.

Please join us on Facebook and Twitter.


Patching Vinyl Ester Floors With Novolac

July 28, 2016

A customer writes:

“We have a dairy processing and packaging facility that was built circa 1994.  At the time of construction we chose to install a flooring system which was vinyl ester based with fiberglass mat.  The floor has held up quite well in areas where it had a good bond.  The failures we have seen are in areas that covered either an expansion joint or control joint in the concrete.  In these areas the flooring has delaminated from the concrete.  Where possible we have made a clean cut through the flooring to an area where we had a good bond and left the concrete exposed.  Other failure areas are around floor drains.  We have made repairs with quick curing epoxies in the past but these don’t seem to bond well to the existing vinyl ester flooring. 

“Having a manufacturing facility with only one down day limits our ability to make substantive repairs.  During a search for low or no VOC  flooring systems I you folks.”

I have personally made many thousands of square feet of floor repairs that sounds exactly like the issues and conditions that you are describing.

Here is what I did to permanently resolve the issue, at least in the patched areas.

  1. Cut back the edges of the delaminated areas back to a point where the vinyl ester is well attached.
  2. Prep the concrete under the failed area and the edges of the old material – epoxy.com/surfaceprep.aspx.
  3. Prime with Epoxy.com Product #12 – epoxy.com/12.aspx
  4. Install a trowel coat of Epoxy.com Product #630 – epoxy.com/633.aspx and
    1. Epoxy Mortar Blend aggregate #82 Mortar Blend Aggregate
    2. Allow to cure hard to the touch and cool.
  5. Glaze with a neat coat of Epoxy.com Product #633 with optional Anti-skid – http://epoxy.com/non-skid-additive-polycarbonate-aggregate.aspx

Please email your additional questions to norm@epoxy.com or visit http://www.epoxy.com .


Epoxy Over Epoxy

June 28, 2016

A customer writes: “I installed your Product #1 All Purpose Epoxy Coating on our floor about 20 years ago.  The floor is not warn out or pealing.  It does have scratches where pallets with nails sticking out the bottom has scratched the surface. I want to change the color to our company color anyway, so I want to re-coat the whole floor. How do I proceed from here?”

You will want to sand the existing floor removing all the shine.  It sounds like there was quality installation and surface prep, since you have no lifting or pealing. If you should have any that is loose you need  to completely remove loose coating .  Solvent wipe with Xylene. Lets solvent dry and apply your epoxy normally.

CAUTION:  Epoxy doesn’t like sticking to epoxy unless you do your surface prep meticulously.  I always recommend doing a test patch to test your surface preparation before you proceed with doing the rest of the floor. This can be done by placing a small test patch or patches. Let them harden overnight and then try removing them with a putty knife, screw driver of similar method to insure it is well bonded.

For more information please contact Epoxy.com Technical Support Department by email at: info@epoxy.com or by phone 353-533-2167.


Choosing Stone for Epoxy Stone

May 5, 2016

Epoxy_Stone_OverlaysBonding stone together with Product #17 – Epoxy Stone Adhesive is attractive and functional. It allows you to have the look of natural rock. This “natural rock” will let water pass through it just like its non-epoxied counterparts. It is however a good choice when you don’t want that stone to be moved, accidentally or on purpose.

This function is so nice that I am seeing projects where larger and larger stone is being utilized for the same reasons (above) as the small stone. There are a few shortcomings that should be avoided when bonding larger stones.

You want to make sure when selecting your stone that it is not too round. Round stone reduces the square inches of surfaces touching each other that are bonded together. That reduces the strength of the material, by reducing the square inches of bonding surface. If angular stone is used (as in the picture above) you increase the surface area touching each other and increase the strength.

If you want larger stones in the mix, I suggest you use a variety of smaller stone to fill in the large gaps between the bigger stone. If you combine a mixed gradation of stone that is also angular (not round) you can get an excellent compromise of strength and large stone beauty.