“We have a dairy processing and packaging facility that was built circa 1994. At the time of construction we chose to install a flooring system which was vinyl ester based with fiberglass mat. The floor has held up quite well in areas where it had a good bond. The failures we have seen are in areas that covered either an expansion joint or control joint in the concrete. In these areas the flooring has delaminated from the concrete. Where possible we have made a clean cut through the flooring to an area where we had a good bond and left the concrete exposed. Other failure areas are around floor drains. We have made repairs with quick curing epoxies in the past but these don’t seem to bond well to the existing vinyl ester flooring.
“Having a manufacturing facility with only one down day limits our ability to make substantive repairs. During a search for low or no VOC flooring systems I you folks.”
I have personally made many thousands of square feet of floor repairs that sounds exactly like the issues and conditions that you are describing.
Here is what I did to permanently resolve the issue, at least in the patched areas.
Cut back the edges of the delaminated areas back to a point where the vinyl ester is well attached.
A customer writes: “I installed your Product #1 All Purpose Epoxy Coating on our floor about 20 years ago. The floor is not warn out or pealing. It does have scratches where pallets with nails sticking out the bottom has scratched the surface. I want to change the color to our company color anyway, so I want to re-coat the whole floor. How do I proceed from here?”
You will want to sand the existing floor removing all the shine. It sounds like there was quality installation and surface prep, since you have no lifting or pealing. If you should have any that is loose you need to completely remove loose coating . Solvent wipe with Xylene. Lets solvent dry and apply your epoxy normally.
CAUTION: Epoxy doesn’t like sticking to epoxy unless you do your surface prep meticulously. I always recommend doing a test patch to test your surface preparation before you proceed with doing the rest of the floor. This can be done by placing a small test patch or patches. Let them harden overnight and then try removing them with a putty knife, screw driver of similar method to insure it is well bonded.
For more information please contact Epoxy.com Technical Support Department by email at: info@epoxy.com or by phone 353-533-2167.
Bonding stone together with Product #17 – Epoxy Stone Adhesive is attractive and functional. It allows you to have the look of natural rock. This “natural rock” will let water pass through it just like its non-epoxied counterparts. It is however a good choice when you don’t want that stone to be moved, accidentally or on purpose.
This function is so nice that I am seeing projects where larger and larger stone is being utilized for the same reasons (above) as the small stone. There are a few shortcomings that should be avoided when bonding larger stones.
You want to make sure when selecting your stone that it is not too round. Round stone reduces the square inches of surfaces touching each other that are bonded together. That reduces the strength of the material, by reducing the square inches of bonding surface. If angular stone is used (as in the picture above) you increase the surface area touching each other and increase the strength.
If you want larger stones in the mix, I suggest you use a variety of smaller stone to fill in the large gaps between the bigger stone. If you combine a mixed gradation of stone that is also angular (not round) you can get an excellent compromise of strength and large stone beauty.
This the second part of a 2 part article. In the first writing we dealt with some of the uses of Epoxy.com Product #214 Epoxy Table Top Resin. This article will deal with the installation of the material.
Quick Review
In my last writing I discussed that Product #214 Water Clear Epoxy Casting – Tabletop Resin – Bar Top Resin is an all-purpose, low viscosity epoxy resin system for coating wood and concrete counter tops, tabletops, bar tops and similar applications. It has excellent clarity and color retention. Our clear casting resin and tabletop resin / bar top Epoxy has zero (0) VOC making it essentially odorless and can therefore be used in occupied areas. It de-bubbles and flattens a lot easier than similar materials.
Considerations
The Product #214 epoxy resin is low viscosity. It is typically applied thicker than 1/16 inch thick. Because the Product #214 Table Top epoxy has such a low viscosity (thin) it needs some kind of boarder around the outside edge to create a dam for your main pour. The picture above shows you one way to make that trim decorative. It is easiest and most effective when the piece that will act as the dam will remain in place after the installation. If your application is less than 1/16 inch thick contact our Technical Support Department at 352-533-2167.
Before You Start
Be sure that you have the proper job supplies.
Paint stir sticks
3 (5 G) plastic pails
Roll of Duct Tape
4 Window Squeegees in various widths
Paper 6oz Dixie cups
2 (2 blade) mixing paddles – should be at least 5 inches in diameter and capable of being used in a heavy duty drill
Heavy Duty Drill for mixing paddles above
6 (2 inch) paint brushes *check bristles to be certain they CAN NOT be pulled out*
Latex (or non latex) rubber gloves
Vacuum (Shop Vacuum Quality)
Roller Pans (for trim)
Roller Pan Liners (for trim)
Roller Frame (for trim)
Roller Covers (shed resistant – for trim)
Roll of plastic to keep buckets on to avoid drips onto floor
*Note – Epoxy does NOT come out of fabrics*
Go Jo Hand cleaner or fast orange for hands and skin
Xylene, MEK, or Acetone for cleaning up hard tools and hard surfaces
Electric Hair Dryer or Heat Gun
Spray bottle
Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol as high a content as possible (90% or higher)
Preparation
Be sure that your tabletop is level. The epoxy table top resin is going to go water flat. If your table is not flat when you pour it, then the surface of the epoxy will be level to gravity and not with your table.
Put plastic under the table that you are about to coat. This plastic is to catch the resin that drips off the table during installation. I like putting some cardboard on top of the plastic to absorb the resin that drips off so it doesn’t get tracked around the room.
Vacuum the surface to receive the tabletop epoxy to remove any dust, or dirt. Mask all surfaces that need protecting.
Be sure that the trim that you have around the table to hold your resin is tight fitting and securely fastened. Mix a small batch of Epoxy Table Top Resin or Epoxy.com Product #15. Coat the trim piece on the outside of the table and use the resin to seal the joint between the table and the trim piece.
The first coat should be installed thin. The first coat is acting as a primer. Additional coats can be applied thicker but be sure not to apply it so thick that you get puddles or runs. Be sure to wipe any resin that gets on the bottom of the table off. This will save a lot of sanding later. Apply as many coats as you feel you need to get the look that you want on the trim pieces. Be sure each coat of epoxy is applied within 24 hours of the previous coat.
Pouring the Epoxy Table Top
Mix your epoxy in batches small enough so you can pour them quickly and all at once. If you leave a large mass of epoxy in the bucket it produces heat quickly. That dramatically reduces the published potlife. Follow all good mixing practices when mixing the material, at a minimum proper measuring of A and B, mix for 3 minutes, being sure to scrape the sides and bottom as you go.
Individual pours should not be less than about 1/16 or more than 3/8 to ½ deep. If the pours are too thin you may experience fisheyes. If the pour is too thick it might produce too much heat. Two much heat can hurt the aesthetics of your table.
If you need the epoxy to be more than 3/8 to ½ inch deep it should be done in multiple pours. Simply wait for the previous pour to harden and cool and then make your next pour. Be sure to make the next pour not longer than 24 hours in between the coats. If you wait much longer than that you may experience inter-coat adhesion issues
Many table top resin manufacturers recommend the use of torches to make their materials lay flat. You do not need to do that with Product #214 table top and casting resin. Our material is thinner than those other materials and will lay flat when applied at the right thicknesses all by themselves.
Make your final pour so that it is full up to the top of your trim pieces and carry it over the edge. That way it appears like all the resin on the top and edges of your trim were from a single pour.
Much of the time Product #214 Table Top Resin tends to de-bubble on its own without a lot of effort to remove the bubbles. The bubbles that you do have can typically be easily removed with a high concentration Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and/or your hair dryer or heat gun.
Any bubbles you see should be broken as soon as possible. That means that you will need to watch your tabletop as it sets up and break the bubbles as soon as you see them. You should continue to watch until the resin gets stiff enough that no more bubbles can be formed.
The electric heat gun or hair dryer can be used to blow at the areas to make the bubbles break. The heat helps to thin the resin and the force of the air helps to break them.
The isopropyl alcohol can be misted over the surface. Never spay it directly the isopropyl alcohol directly at the surface but rather mist above the surface at about a 90 degree angle allowing the droplets to hit the surface. Never spay enough to wet the surface. The droplets of isopropyl alcohol help to mechanically break the bubbles while the isopropyl acts as a solvent that evaporates almost immediately after the bubble breaking action.
Summary
Epoxy.com Product #214 Table Top Epoxy Resin is a versatile product that is easy to use. It is designed to be poured where a thicker casting of epoxy resin is required. This epoxy table top resin pours to a water flat shinny surface. It easily releases its bubbles with a little assistance, and cures water clear.
Bonding stone together with 